Consumer Advocacy
What you need to know
Engagement Rings
  • Not all grading certificates are equally accurate.

  • Lab-grown diamonds have exactly the same physical and chemical properties as mined diamonds.

  • It’s borderline impossible to track the origin or source of a mined gemstone to guarantee it’s conflict-free.

  • The Kimberley Process has been highly criticized by experts and advocacy organizations.

Our Approach

How we analyzed the best Engagement Ring Companies

Ring Selection & Customization
Rather than looking at each ring individually, we took a look at the store's selection of engagement rings as a whole to spot trends of styles and stones.
Stone Sourcing & Grading
We considered the source of the stones a company uses for their rings or to sell separately—mined, lab-grown or recycled—and which laboratory certifies the quality of the stones.
Service Plans & Guarantees
For stores with similar ring selections, we considered any service plans and warranties such as complimentary cleaning or replacement of lost stones.
90 People found this helpful.
We receive compensation from these partners, which impacts the order they appear on the page. That said, the analyses and opinions on our site are our own and we believe in editorial integrity.

Our Top Picks: Engagement Rings Reviews

James Allen review

Best for: Most detailed view of diamonds, virtual diamond inspections

Price range: $200 - $8,000 (setting only)

Stones: Mined diamonds and gemstones; Lab-grown diamonds

Grading: GIA, AGS, IGI

Service plans: Free engraving, free 1-year free resizing, Lifetime Warranty for manufacturing defects

Special discounts: 1.5% discount to customers who pay via wire transfer

Screenshot jamesallen.com, April 2020.

Online jewelry prices are unbeatable, but the experience of an up-close look at that soon-to-be-yours diamond before buying is something some customers are not willing to do without. To cater to this crowd, James Allen has implemented their trademarked 360° Diamond Display Technology. They photograph most of their diamonds with a 15x or greater magnification in 360° so you can get the clearest view of the diamond's shape, cut, color, clarity, and sparkle.

If you're still not satisfied enough with only taking a look at the stone, you can schedule a virtual jewelry inspection. They’ll ask for your name, email, and phone number (optional) to connect you with one of their non-commissioned diamond and jewelry experts. The experts can guide you through the stones’ grading certificate and characteristics in real-time.

Shane Co. review

Best for: Free lifetime maintenance and transferable warranty

Price range: $300 - $7,000

Stones: Mined diamonds and gemstones

Service plans: Lifetime Warranty and Maintenance, Upgrade Program

Special discounts: 1.5% discount to customers who pay via wire transfer

Screenshot shaneco.com, April 2020.

Lifetime manufacturer warranties are usually non-transferable, but Shane Co’s knows some rings become heirlooms. As long as your ring is gifted within the family, their lifetime warranty will continue being valid.The warranty also includes maintenance and repair work such as resizing, cleaning, polishing and lost stone replacement at no additional cost. 

And, if your jewelry is ever stolen, you can purchase a replacement at a discount provided you have a valid police report.

Allurez review

Best for: Design your own moissanite ring; 7-day try-at-home ring collection

Price range: $800 - $50,000

Stones: Mined, Lab-grown, Diamond Alternatives

Grading: GIA, AGI, AGS, EGL, None

Service plans: Free engraving, free 1-year warranty ($39 for 2 years, $69 for 3 and $99 for lifetime), Diamond Price-Match Guarantee

Special discounts: 5% off for military personnel and immediate family members, 1.5% discount to customers who pay via wire transfer

Screenshot allurez.com, April 2020.

Usually, online jewelry stores let you customize your own ring using mine diamonds, colored gemstones or lab-grown diamonds. Allurez does too, but their service also lets you customize moissanite rings. They have over 100 moissanites to choose from, starting at an affordable $200.

They have a selection of more than 50 rings that can be tried at home for up to seven days—you can choose up to three designs at a time. However, the replicas are made of sterling silver and cubic zirconia and are only available between size six and seven. A $50 per ring deposit will be charged to your credit card until the rings are returned. 

Allurez specifies that its try-at-home styles are only available in white alloy metals, and that most engagement rings and bridal sets come with a round shape center stone.

Barkev's review

Best for: Assorted selection of moissanite rings; 5-day try-at-home program

Price range: $180 - $50,000 (most displayed prices are for settings only)

Stones: Mined, Diamond Alternatives

Grading: GIA, EGL, GCAL, IGI

Service plans: Diamond Upgrade Program, Manufacturer Warranty

Screenshot barkevs.com, April 2020.

Couples who'd rather stay away from mined stones might have considered getting a moissanite ring. If that’s your case, you’ll want to take a look at Barkev’s moissanite selection. When we did, they had 20 pages displaying 24 different moissanite rings—that’s over 400 options to choose from starting at $1,300.

Some of their rings can be tried for up to five days. They’ll send over replicas made of silver and cubic zirconia. Once the five-day trial is up, return them using their provided prepaid shipping label. While you will have to pay a $200 deposit for each sample you request, this is refunded once you return them. If you decide to order one of the rings you sampled, then the deposit will be applied to that order.

Kay Jewelers review

Best for: Assorted selection of preset diamond rings; The lifetime guarantee applies to both diamonds and gemstones

Price range: $100 - $25,000

Stones: Mined

Service Plans: Lifetime Guarantee; Optional Extended Service Plans; Optional 3-year Jewelry Replacement Plan; Free Lifetime Cleaning and Inspections; Lifetime Diamond Trade-In Policy

Screenshot kayjewelers.com, April 2020.

You don't need to be looking for an engagement ring to know about Kay Jewelers. Chances are you’ve seen or heard their iconic “Every Kiss Begins With Kay” slogan at least once before.

Just like Zales, Kay is owned by Signet Jewelers. This gives it a well-assorted selection between its online store and outlet

 Unlike Zales’ Diamond Breakage Coverage, which only covers diamonds, Kay guarantees to replace not just diamonds, but also sapphires, rubies, and emeralds if they get chipped, broken, or lost. The labor and materials necessary to set the replacement diamond or gemstone are included at no additional cost along, with unlimited free cleanings and inspections. Your mounting is covered for manufacturing defects for a year.

Zales review

Best for: Assorted selection of preset engagement rings

Price range: $50 - $40,000

Stones: Mined

Service Plans: Diamond Breakage Coverage, Free cleaning and inspections, Lifetime Diamond Trade-In, Optional Extended Service Plan

Screenshot zales.com, April 2020.

Zales has one of the most assorted selections of engagement rings—to be expected since it’s owned by Signet Jewelers, the self-proclaimed world's largest retailer of diamond jewelry. With thousands of options just for diamond rings, you’ll probably find at least one to your liking. There’s also an outlet section with even more options.

If you still can't find “the one,” you can also choose to design a custom ring using their Design Suite. Other online jewelers also have a create-your-own-ring option as well, but what made Zales’ stand out is that you can customize a Vera Wang ring from the Love Collection designed exclusively for Zales.

Blue Nile review

Best for: GIA certified diamonds; Selection of colored diamonds

Price range: $180 - $12,000

Stones: Mined

Grading: GIA

Service plans: Diamond Price-Match Guarantee, Diamond Upgrade Program, Diamond Price Guarantee, Lifetime Manufacturer Warranty, Unlimited free cleaning and inspections

Special discounts:1.5% discount for purchases over $750 via wire transfer

Screenshot bluenile.com, April 2020.

If your main concern is quality, you’ll want to check out Blue Nile. They only sell diamonds graded by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), regarded by experts as the most accurate lab in the industry. Of the stores reviewed, Blue Nile was the only one that sells solely GIA-graded diamonds—with over 40,000 to choose from in their build-your-own-ring service.

Their diamond engagement rings—whether pre-set or customized—and any diamond, gemstone, or pearl jewelry worth $1,000 or more comes with a complimentary appraisal.

MiaDonna review

Best for: Has a selection of lab-grown gemstones; 7-day try-at-home ring collection

Price Range: $375-$3,000

Stones: Lab-grown diamonds and gemstones

Grading: GCAL, IGI

Service Plans: Lifetime Manufacturing Warranty, Diamond Upgrade Policy

Special Discount: 10% off on all orders for U.S. active-duty military personnel, National Guard members, Reservists, veterans, retired personnel and spouses

Screenshot miadonna.com, April 2020.

Lab-grown diamonds are an option for people who want to avoid conflict diamonds, also known as blood diamonds, but what about people who’d like to own colored gemstones? MiaDonna carries a collection of more than 200 lab-created rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and alexandrites. You can even request a specific shade for your stone, between light, medium, or dark.

Catbird review

Best for: Simple, modern designs; Recycled diamonds; Recycled and fair-trade gold; Champagne, grey and black diamonds; Designer rings

Price range: $200 - $14,000

Stones: Recycled; Lab-grown: Mined

Grading: GIA, IGI or GCAL

Service plans: Lifetime Manufacturer Warranty; 1-year lost stone replacement

Screenshot catbirdnyc.com, April 2020.

Catbird’s wedding and engagement collection currently features around 40 designs made using recycled or fair-trade gold, and recycled or lab-grown diamonds. The recycled diamonds are taken from vintage or deadstock jewelry. They only use mined diamonds for rose-cut diamond rings since, as Catbird Founder Rony Vardi told Fortune, those are "impossible to find recycled.”

A small supply of stones should make it easier to track where these stones come from. The company website states that to “ensure that mines are up to the standards for inclusion in [their] line, [they] only work with a small palette of stones.” Leigh Batnick Plessner, co-creative director of Catbird, said in the above-mentioned article that they purposely work with a small number of stones because they “need to vouch for it.”

You can also find rings by designers like Kataoka, Satomi Kawakita, Polly Wales, and more. Each of these designers, like Catbird, focus on eco-conscious and responsibly sourced materials.

Our Research

More insight into our methodology

An engagement ring is as meaningful as all the reasons behind wanting to buy one. While we can’t tell you which ring to buy specifically without knowing you or your beloved, even if we did, the final decision is still yours to make. What we’ll do instead is recommend a jewelry store where you might find the perfect symbol of your love. 

We didn't set our search on looking for the best jewelry store in the U.S. because there really is no such thing. Some people go for the classic diamond solitaire ring. Others may refine their search by looking for a lab-grown diamond, due to concerns about the human rights abuses or environmental impact behind certain mining operations. 

Whether your top concerns are aesthetic or ethical, we’ve included a wide variety of stores on our list, to make sure you’ll find what you need.


Ring Selection & Customization

You're probably going to want to look at a couple of rings before making a final decision, so variety was one of our main concerns. We compared the engagement ring selections from some of the most popular online jewelry stores, taking note of the different styles they sold and the size of their inventory.

We wanted to find the one with the most assorted selection and most, if not all, ring styles: solitaire, pavé, halo, vintage, channel set, side-stone, or three-stone. We also considered whether these styles were available with more than just diamonds, including colored gemstones like rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and others.

If two or more stores had similar selections, the decisive factor would then be their customization service. We wanted customers to have the option of designing their own ring either by sending over their own ideas, by selecting the stone and setting separately, or even better, via both options.

Some of the stores with well-assorted ring selections also sold lab-grown diamonds or diamond alternatives like moissanite and recycled diamonds, but we noticed this selection was smaller when compared to mined gemstones. So, for people who want to avoid mined stones, we searched for other stores with that as their main focus.

After these considerations, we still found ourselves with some tied contenders. In these cases, the factors below were our tiebreakers.


Stone Sourcing & Grading

First, we divided our candidates into two categories: the ones who mainly sold mined gemstones and the ones who mainly sold lab-grown gemstones. It wouldn't have been fair to judge across these groups since not only do their sourcing methods completely differ, they cater to entirely different audiences. We then focused on which lab grades the majority of their gemstones. 

To some, a diamond is a diamond is a diamond—shiny, bright, classic. But, as the GIA puts it, “not all diamonds are created equal. In fact, every diamond is unique.” What sets diamonds apart is their specific properties, or four C’s (cut, color, clarity, and carat). Now, the four C’s are not just numbers and descriptions randomly assigned by jewelers. If this was the case, it would result in unrealistic inconsistencies across similar diamonds. It would also allow for price inflation on lower quality diamonds, leaving untrained buyers to get conned.

To prevent this, diamonds are sent to grading laboratories where certified gemologists inspect them using specialized tools to generate a detailed grading report, often called a grading certificate as well.

The most well-known grading labs in the US are:

  • Gemological Institute of America (GIA)

  • American Gem Society (AGS)

  • International Gemological Institute (IGI)

  • European Gemological Laboratories (EGL)

  • Gemological Science International (GSI)

  • Gem Certification and Assurance Lab (GCAL)

Many experts agree that the GIA is the authority in diamond grading, recognized as the most trusted and reliable. As an independent nonprofit, it’s dedicated to the research and education of gemology. It’s also the first-ever gemological lab to exist and the creator of the four C system that has become a universal standard for diamond grading. Although the grading process and scales used by other labs may differ, in essence, they all follow GIA’s original system.

For this reason, we preferred stores in which the majority of their diamond selection was graded by the GIA. After GIA, the American Gem Society (AGS) is considered to provide the most reliable and consistent reports so this lab was our second favorite when searching. In the case of lab-grown diamonds, IGI and GCAL are recommended.

Some companies use their own in-house grading systems in addition to these labs. If this was the case, we made sure it was for a smaller portion of their selection, as experts recommend buying gemstones graded by a third-party if you want to better ascertain their value and quality.


Service Plans & Guarantees

Next we looked at their service plans and warranties. We preferred companies that provided more than the usual manufacturers’ policy. We looked for complimentary cleaning, replacement or trade-in plans,  and any other service that could guarantee the life and quality of your ring.

To keep all guarantees valid, your ring should be cleaned and inspected every six months by jewelers from the store you bought it from. Skipping inspections voids all service plans and guarantees, even if you paid extra for them. Repairs done by other jewelry stores or jewelers also void all guarantees.

Some of the most common service plans and guarantees are:

Upgrade Program or Trade-In Policy

With this policy you can trade your purchased jewelry for a new piece at a future time. The policy usually only applies to diamond jewelry. 

Your ring may qualify if it includes both diamonds and gemstones, but the trade-in value will usually still be based solely on the diamond. The gemstones would be removed and returned to you. It’s unusual for colored gemstones, lab-grown diamonds, and custom jewelry to be eligible for this kind of policy.

They also require that the price of the new purchase is at least double the value of the original.

Extended Service Plans

Jewelry service plans cover the care of your ring so its quality and value don’t diminish over time. They include some or all of the following services:

  • Resizing

  • Cleaning

  • Refinishing and polishing

  • Rhodium plating white gold

  • Prong retipping

  • Resetting your diamonds and gemstones

  • Lost stone replacement

  • Engraving

Services such as cleaning and polishing may be included for free with most purchases. The others mentioned usually require an additional one-time payment upon purchase.

Jewelry Replacement Plans

Ring repairs that are not covered by Lifetime Manufacturing Guarantee or Extended Service Plans may be replaced with a ring of similar quality and value.

Diamond Price-Match Guarantees 

If you find a diamond of comparable quality and grading at a lower price, stores with this guarantee might match it.

Helpful information about Engagement Rings

Where to start when buying a ring

Set your budget

Forget the old two-or-three month salary rule. How much you spend on the ring won’t necessarily mean your betrothed-to-be will love it more. 

This supposed rule was actually a perfectly executed advertising campaign by De Beers, deemed by many as the world’s leading diamond company. In the 1980s, De Beers released two ads in the US that alluded to the salary rule. One read “Two months' salary showed the future Mrs. Smith what the future would be like." and the other “How can you make two months' salary last forever?” Another ad in Japan read “A diamond engagement ring: worth three months' salary.”

Here’s the truth: You don’t need to spend more than you can afford. Once you set your ideal budget, search for a high-quality gemstone within it following the four C’s: cut, clarity, color and carat.

Know your 4 C’s

Cut

Some confuse cut with a gemstone shape but the cut actually refers to a gemstone's proportions. The more precise they are, the better the gemstone’s facets will interact with light, resulting in the sought-after diamond sparkle. Even if a diamond has flawless clarity (another of the four C’s), it may still look dull if its cut is too shallow or deep.

How a diamond is cut directly affects a diamond’s brilliance, fire, and scintillation:

  • Brilliance: how a diamond reflects white light to create a brightness

  • Fire: colored flashed that sometimes happen when a diamond disperses light

  • Scintillation: flashes between light and dark areas that cause a diamond to produce white sparkle.

The Gemological Institute of America’s (GIA) Diamond Cut Grading System grades cuts as poor, fair, good, very good, and excellent. The nonprofit research lab considers cut “the most complex and technically difficult to analyze” out of the four C’s. 

Clarity

Most mined diamonds have blemishes or inclusions, foreign material trapped within a mineral while that mineral forms. According to the GIA, “needles, clouds, fluids, and crystals are examples of inclusions typically found in natural gemstones.” 

Clarity simply refers to how noticeable, or not, these imperfections are. The GIA Clarity Scale considers the size, nature, position, color, and quantity of blemishes and inclusions. These are their clarity grades when observed under 10X:

  • Flawless (FL): No visible inclusions or blemishes

  • Internally Flawless (IF): Some visible blemishes but no inclusions

  • Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 and VVS2): Slight inclusions but their difficult to see

  • Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2): Some inclusions can be observed but are characterized as minor

  • Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2) - Inclusions are noticeable

  • Included (I1, I2, and I3) - Inclusions are obvious and may affect transparency and brilliance

Color

Diamonds range from brilliant white to pale yellow and are graded on a scale from D (colourless) to Z (light yellow). The less tinted a diamond is, the more light it will reflect and the more expensive it’ll be.

Carat

A gemstone’s carat refers to its weight. Typically, the bigger a gemstone’s carat size the higher its value because larger diamonds are rarer. According to the International Gem Society (IGS), only around one in a million diamonds weigh one carat, one in five million weigh two carats and one in 15 million weigh three carats.

Find out their favorite shape

Round

Round diamonds are possibly the most popular. A brilliant, or excellent, cut round diamond will have maximum light reflection capability, giving it more brilliance, fire, and scintillation than other shapes. 

Princess 

After the classic round shape, the princess follows as the most popular shape for engagement rings. It’s also known as the square-cut because of its four pointed corners, though some may have a slightly more rectangular shape. Out of all the square-shaped styles, these are the most similar to the round shape when it comes to brilliance.

Oval

The oval shape has similar shine to the round. Since they’re elongated, they may give the illusion of being bigger than they really are. This shape also has ideal brilliance and fire, similarly to the round shape.

Marquise

The marquise shape resembles an eye. It’s also sometimes known by some as the football shape. Just like the oval shape, it can also create an illusion of bigger size due to its large surface areas.

Pear

Also known as “the teardrop,” the pear shape is a combination of a round and a marquise. When cut correctly, they will shine just as much as round shaped stones.

Cushion

As the name suggests, the cushion shape is square, similar to the princess, but its corners are rounded—some may be a bit more rectangular.

Emerald

The emerald shape is rectangular with cut corners. Viewed from above, it features rectangular, rows of broad facets that resemble stairs which is why it's also known as the step cut. This shape has less brilliance and fire than others.

Asscher

Instead of having rounded corners like the cushion shape, the asscher is a square with cut corners that give it an octagonal look. It has a step-like appearance like the emerald. Unlike other shapes that have between 50 to 58 facets, the asscher has 74 facets which increases its brilliance.

Radiant

The radiant shape is squared like the princess but with cut corners. After asscher, it has the most facets—70 facets—giving it increased brilliance. When viewed from above, it has a circular pattern giving it both square and round features.

Do they even want a diamond ring? Make sure to ask.

One of our fellow coworkers told us an engagement story that really speaks to how times have changed. A friend of hers got proposed to on top of Mount Kilimanjaro with a rock. Yes. A stone picked up from the dirt after a very long hike. Knowing her very well, her beau recognized that a stone from Kilimanjaro would be more meaningful than a beautifully cut sparkly engagement ring, because of the experience and memories it would forever represent. The woman, by the way, agreed.

We do know that some people dream of the day when they can flaunt a diamond ring to their family and friends. But stories like this one exemplify that the meaning placed on engagement rings throughout the years is not as standard or important to everybody. In fact, even the idea of a diamond being necessary for an engagement ring is entirely manufactured. 

Remember the DeBeers diamond cartel with the ads for how much you should spend? It turns out they’re also responsible for the notion of diamonds as the ultimate choice for engagement rings in the first place. The Depression, when DeBeers controlled 60 percent of rough diamond output, was disastrous for sales—especially since massive South African diamond mines were driving prices down. 

And so, in the late 1940s, the company hired ad agency N.W Ayers, and gave rise to what is possibly the most successful ad campaign ever created: “A diamond is forever.” By persuading wooers not only that diamonds were the number-one choice of real romance, but also that their size and expense was directly proportional to the measure of their love, DeBeers and Ayers were able to make the diamond engagement de rigeur. From being the choice of a mere 10 percent of couples right before WWII, by the end of the 20th century, 80 percent of engagement rings had diamonds. 

 So, before even starting to look for a ring, try to nonchalantly ask your significant other what their preferences are. There’s always also the possibility that they don’t want a ring at all or would rather it be stoneless, with a colored gemstone, or with a lab-grown diamond.

If they don’t want a ring but you’d still want to do something special, get them something else they’ve always wanted. Maybe plan a trip to a country where they've always wanted to go. One of our writers said she’d rather have her girlfriend, who's a software engineer, write a code she can interact with, like a mini game or app, that randomly pops the question while she’s using it. Certainly not all of us can do something as techy as that but you get it—a proposal should be creative, but most of all tailored to the person you love.

Maybe your partner is very traditional. But maybe they’re like our coworker’s friend who said yes to a rock that’s monetarily worthless but has unmatchable personal value. The point is, love goes beyond a gemstone placed on a metal setting and rings are not the only way to make an engagement special. Ask before making a decision. The whole point is securing that “Yes!” anyway.

Take your time

Once you're sure that first, they do want a ring, and second, the kind of ring they’d like, you’ll want to take a couple of weeks to compare options. Look at the selections from different stores and choose a number of rings you think could end up being the one. 

Be sure to compare not only their prices, but their specifications as well. To untrained eyes—and even more so through pictures online—there’s no way to fully ascertain a diamond’s quality and beauty. That’s where the four C’s come in and why it’s so important to compare each of these specifications between your picks.

Take into account the jewelry store’s service plans, guarantees, and return policies as well. In the long run, they could save you from spending more than you already will on the ring itself.

Conflict-free diamonds and the Kimberley process

Most online jewelry stores have a link at the bottom of their site with the words “conflict-free,” “sustainability,” “ethical” or something along those lines—if not at the bottom of the page, then probably somewhere in their About Us or FAQ. Within these links you’ll find a statement on how they have a zero-tolerance policy for conflict diamonds and how to prevent participating in this illegal trade, they adhere to the Kimberley Process (KP).

What is the Kimberley Process?

The Kimberley Process (KP) was established in 2003 after nongovernmental organizations shined a light on the illegal trade of rough diamonds, (i.e. diamonds that haven’t been cut or polished), from rebel-held territories. These diamonds were being used by rebel movements to finance armed conflicts against legitimate governments, thus the names conflict diamonds or blood diamonds.

The big question is: Can consumers fully trust that their diamond is not in any way linked to armed conflicts if it’s KP certified? We asked Brad Brooks-Rubin, managing director of the advocacy group Enough Project and its investigative partner The Sentry, Ex-Special Adviser for Conflict Diamonds for the U.S. Department of State, and Ex-Global Director of Development and Beneficiation for the Gemological Institute of America. His answer? “You can’t.” Also, if you’re concerned with other human-rights abuses beyond armed conflicts, such as the treatment of workers, the KP doesn't cover those at all.

Skepticism surrounds the KP

The KP was once viewed as an innovative step against systematic human-rights violations in the diamond industry. Over the past decade, however, it's been put under increasing scrutiny by experts who consider it in desperate need of reform.

“When it was developed 20 years ago, … it really was ahead of its time,” admitted Brooks-Rubin. However, he thinks that the KP has failed overall to accomplish its core purpose. He believes “the structure [of the KP] is there, it's just that the implementation is poor and that's been the case for a long time. … It’s just a matter of the will to make sure that it does work and that’s what we haven’t seen.”

Brooks-Rubin thinks the KP is not “addressing the real issue.” Rather than focusing on producing a certificate for every diamond export, the KP should require that members identify “the real risks at a broad level” such as “environmental, labor, human rights, [and] corruption … and then [develop] ways that companies and governments can try to address those specific risks,” he said.

Desperate calls to redefine what constitutes a conflict diamond 

Global Witness was one of the first advocacy groups to expose the issue of blood diamonds back in 1998. The group helped establish and participated in the KP until 2011, when they decided to step away after the KP authorized diamond exports from Marange, Zimbabwe. Apparently, mines in that area had been seized by the Zimbabwean Army, killing around 200 miners. Despite the violence, since conflict diamonds specifically refer to diamonds traded to fund rebel movements and that situation involved the country’s legitimate army, the KP’s guidelines didn’t apply.

Global Witness has continued to express concerns regarding the KP’s definition of what constitutes a conflict diamond and the system’s general ineffectiveness. “Consumers buying diamonds with a KP certificate who believe the scheme provides assurance their diamond has not funded human rights abuses are labouring under illusions,” says the organization.

IMPACT, another advocacy group and participant of the KP, followed Global Witness’ steps and left in 2017—six years after Global Witness—because of the same issues. According to a Financial Times article, executive director of IMPACT Joanne Lebert thinks “[t]here’s no meaningful assurance that a diamond is conflict-free. The public is under the wrong impression that the problem is solved.”

Even members of the World Diamond Council (WDC), the group representative of the diamond industry, have expressed concern regarding the issue. In 2019, Stephane Fischler, President of the WDC, spoke in the United Nations General Assembly’s 73rd Session asking to expand the definition of what conflict diamonds are since the KP “has not been successful in addressing other types of mineral-related conflict, and in particular systemic violence in the mining areas.”

The KP doesn’t protect polished diamonds

Beyond the KP’s limited definition of what constitutes a conflict diamond, another point of criticism lies in the fact that the system does not apply at all to polished diamonds, the ones being sold directly to consumers. As Brooks-Rubin explained that once diamonds are “cut and polished, [the KP] stops applying.”

He insists that if people are concerned not only about a diamond’s origin but how it’s traded through the supply chain, “the KP only ever really takes you so far. … If a diamond is cut in a factory with bad conditions, or there's corruption or crime involved in how that diamond moves after [it leaves a mine], the KP has never had the idea that it still applies to those diamonds.”

In hope of addressing this issue, the WDC designed a System of Warranties which gives sellers the option of attaching a conflict-free guarantee to the invoices of polished diamonds and jewelry containing diamonds. However, this is a “voluntary system of industry self-regulation.” 

Although Brooks-Rubin believes the WDC deserves credit for designing the System of Warranties, he insists it’s not the solution since “there's no real evidence that governments have ever audited a company and said: ‘Show me your warranties and how you know the information is valid’.”

Calls for reform continue unanswered

Though the KP’s 2019 Plenary Meeting included a proposal to broaden the definition of conflict diamonds to include additional human-rights abuses, delegates couldn't reach an agreement and the lax definition remains.

At this point, the situation is so out of hand in some regions that Russia has called to  lift Central Republic of Africa’s (CAR) ban from the KP—which has been in place since 2013. Russia's reasoning is that, even with the ban in place, conflict diamonds from CAR are smuggled into the international diamond trade. If the ban is lifted, there would be no need to smuggle diamonds and the country could profit economically from the legal trade.

Brooks-Rubin considers Russia’s request the ultimate admission that the KP has failed. “If the KP does that, to me, it's the final step to say the KP should be terminate. … It's an admission of failure, because what should happen is that when those [smuggled] diamonds get to … wherever they go next in the supply chain they should be stopped and the KP is failing to achieve that,” he reasoned.

Is there anything consumers can do?

Although the KP says “99.8% of the world’s diamonds come from conflict-free sources,” there’s currently no unfailing way to certify either the accuracy of conflict-free claims or that blood diamonds aren’t being smuggled at some point into the supply chain. And the fact remains that, with the KP’s current definition of conflict-free being what it is, other human-right abuses are completely left out of the scope. 

Brooks-Rubin encourages consumers to do their research and find companies that go beyond simply adhering to the KP. If “a jeweler tells you that your diamonds are clean [only] because of the KP, that’s not accurate and there's no way that they can be sure” the diamonds are not linked to human rights violations, Brooks-Rubin emphasized.

He acknowledges there are companies with “more robust systems in place” and “stronger efforts to ensure that they're buying from better sources and have a better level of tracing in place.” Some companies have indeed been trying to implement tracking technologies for their diamonds but these efforts are still far from the industry standard.

Most importantly, he encourages consumers to question companies in order to get them to pay attention. “I’ve been to many diamond industry meetings … and we would say, ‘This is an important issue to the American people.’ And they would basically look at us and say, ‘No, it's not’,” he contemplated. He considers that the industry as a whole won’t care, ever, if it thinks that consumers “just want a diamond that looks pretty and has the right quality characteristics.”

Moreover, he urges consumers to keep in mind that human-rights violations may exist with all their purchases. “It's not just your jewelry, it's any purchase … We have an impact across the world,” he pondered.

Beyond conflict-free: lab-grown diamonds, recycled gemstones, and diamond alternatives

People concerned with sustainability and not willing to compromise their beliefs might want to keep away from mined gemstones until the Kimberley Process is reformed to address not only diamonds traded by rebel movements, but also human-rights abuses and even ecological impacts. Alternatives to traditional mined diamonds include:

Lab-grown diamonds

First thing you should know: a lab-grown diamond is a diamond, both chemically and physically. The only difference between a mined diamond and a lab-grown diamond is that one is forged deep within the Earth’s mantle and the other in a lab with specialized equipment that heats up to 1,400F or more. Both gemstones are chemically identical since lab diamonds are grown from small pieces of natural mined diamonds known as “diamond seeds.” Lab-grown diamonds can cost up to 40 percent less than natural diamonds.

For industry experts, the main issue with lab-grown diamonds seems to be how rare and valuable one is over the other. When Tiffany & Co.’s CEO Alessandro Bogliolo was asked if the company would ever sell lab-grown diamonds he answered, “No. It’s something that by definition has no rarity. To celebrate one of your special moments you want something very, very, very special.” 

Of course, this claim to rarity is actually a very common myth. Diamonds are some of the most prevalent gems in existence, with some recent estimates putting the number at around a quadrillion tons, albeit under the Earth’s surface. And, similarly to a car, they automatically lose value once they leave the store. 

Tom Gelb, co-founder of the Diamond Durability Laboratory and a consultant to the diamond industry, told The New York Times that it’s a fraud from an economic standpoint to compare both diamonds because “the value of synthetic diamonds will drop as production costs fall. It is a gem’s rarity, … that maintains its value.”

Recycled gemstones

A recycled or reclaimed gemstone is one that has been removed from vintage jewelry and repurposed for a new piece. There's always the possibility that a recycled gemstone might not be completely conflict-free since there’s no way of knowing the conditions in which it was mined, but you won't be buying yet another gemstone from a somewhat shady trade.

Moissanite: A diamond alternative

Originally discovered in 1893 inside a meteor crater in Arizona, moissanite is rarely found in nature. According to the American Gem Society, “[i]ts occurrence in nature is extremely rare and has only been found in upper mantle rock and meteorites.”

Of all the diamond alternatives available, moissanite comes closest to diamonds physically and chemically. To the untrained eye, it’s easy to mistake one for the other.

Moissanite is the second hardest gemstone after diamonds, scoring a 9.25 on the Mohs Scale of Hardness—diamonds score a 10. This score makes moissanite very durable and resistant to scratching and chipping. In terms of sparkle, moissanite has a higher refractive index than diamonds—2.65 and 2.4, correspondingly. This means that both are excellent at reflecting light but their sparkle differs. A diamond tends to emit a white sparkle while moissanite is more colorful, almost like a disco ball effect. 

What to Watch Out For

Diamond simulants are not the same as lab-grown diamonds or diamond alternatives

In 2019, the Federal Trade Commission warned several jewelry marketers selling simulated diamonds “to avoid describing their products in a way that may falsely imply that they have the same optical, physical, and chemical properties of mined diamonds.” The FTC's warning denounced how advertising might imply that diamond simulants were equivalent to lab-grown or mined diamonds.

Diamond simulants, like cubic zirconia (CZ) or moissanite, are synthetic gemstones that look similar to diamonds but are in no way identical, especially as regards their chemical composition. They shouldn't be confused with lab-grown diamonds which are, in fact, identical both physically and chemically to their mined counterparts. 
According to the GIA, diamond simulants “are not the same as synthetic [lab-grown] diamonds. Although both materials are produced in a laboratory, synthetic diamonds have the same chemical, physical and optical properties as natural diamonds. The simulants do not.”


FAQs about Engagement Rings


Do I have to pay sales taxes if I buy my engagement ring online?

You’ll probably have to. There was a time when you’d pay taxes only if the store you bought from had a brick and mortar presence. Now, there’s a Supreme Court ruling that allows states to require companies to collect sales tax even if they don't have a physical presence.


Will my ring come with a grading report?

Yes. Remember though that not all gemstones are graded by the same lab and the different labs don’t use the same grading process. Some jewelry store stores will have their gemstones graded by organizations like GIA, AGS, and IGI, amongst others. Others will use in-house grading systems. Experts recommend buying gemstones that are graded by a third-party lab. 


Do retailers offer jewelry insurance?

Most don’t but some partner with insurance companies, like Jewelers Mutual Insurance, which can make the process faster.


Are gemologists available?

The best ring retailers have uncommissioned gemologists on staff to help you pick the best ring for you. Many of these gemologists are certified by organizations like GIA, which offer graduate programs in gemology.

Can I return or exchange an engagement ring bought online?

Yes. Most jewelry stores offer return or exchange policies between 30 and 60 days. Keep in mind that it might not apply to custom designs or engraved rings.


Our Engagement Rings Review Summed Up

Company NameThe Best
James Allen Engagement RingsOverall
Jared Engagement RingsSelection and Availability
Blue Nile Engagement RingsGIA certified diamonds; Selection of colored diamonds
Zales Engagement RingsLong-Standing Reputation & Guarantee
Ritani Engagement RingsFor Ethically-Sourced Diamonds
We receive compensation from these partners